1. Let the faucets “run,” not just drip, when temperatures are really extreme! The water has to MOVE.
2. Don’t worry about conserving energy—leave the thermostats high enough to keep the structures and pipes warm! A little higher electricity bill is well worth the cost when compared to loss of water service, broken pipes, and plumbing/ structural repairs—not to mention possible inconveniences!
3. Keep more fire wood than you need on hand (close to your door) if you have any wood-burning heaters. You can always save it for next year if you don’t use it all, but you might not be able to get extra if you burn what is stacked outside your house! And a fireplace/woodburning stove can provide the difference between decent heat and “way too cold,” even if you have heaters and power!
4. Pay attention to your thermostat(s). It may not be best to just set it and leave it at one setting, and if you have a “heat pump,” which most newer systems do, you might do better setting it onto the “emergency heat” notch if the outdoor temperatures drop to the point of inefficient “heat pumping.” (See your owner’s manual, or ask the experienced HVAC “guy,” who services your unit.)
Plus, I don’t have a “smart” thermostat, but if you do, there are great advantages to careful programming! 5. If you are doing some minor construction around your home, it might pay to move your thermostat to a more central location/popular spot of your home on the main level near or in the area(s) of most use. This might be especially true if you have made additions to your floor plan after the initial thermostat was installed.
6. Another consideration is changing thermostat settings according to the hours you will be spending the most time in certain sections of your home and also possibly the hours you use your home during “peak” and “non-peak” hours. This may not be important to keeping pipes from freezing, but it can be a factor in comfort and higher/lower billings.
7. One report I read stated that “the average household could save one-third of its current energy bill by switching to energy-efficient appliances, equipment, and lighting.” “Nearly half of all home utility bills is spent on heating/cooling.” **Note: When “my HVAC guy” replaced the worn-out system on one side of our house, he told me that the much higher EER (energy efficiency ratio) would probably pay for the unit and installation before I needed another new one. I must admit that I did not believe him. Guess what, with just this “one side” new system, I believe that I have saved probably $50 per month during low usage times and $100 to $125 during high. Robert, you were right! “Thanks!”
8. Continuing in the same area, estimates say that probably 25% of our energy bills go for just the “lights” inside and outside the house. Turning off lights when they are not in use, using automatic timers, and switching to “energy-efficient bulbs” could reduce this by quite a bit!
9. One more major area is the “water heater.” I was amazed how much our bills dropped when both of our original units had been replaced after wearing out—and the water was hotter faster! I have read and heard that the newer efficient stoves, cook-tops, washers, etc. can make a noticeable difference, too!
10. And before concluding, keep in mind that drapes, curtains, shutters, blinds, insulated windows and doors, and so many other newly improved products can more than “pay for much of their costs” by reducing energy loss and consumption.
11. And finally, know where your “water cut-off” valve is located, just in case you have a leak and need to turn off the water for repairs or to stop a “flood” inside. **Some houses have “zones” and more than one supply to the structure, so don’t forget to locate all “cutoffs.”**
Stay WARM and COOL, and spend your saved extra money on something(s) very important, such as “spoiling” CHILDREN and GRANDCHILDREN and taking your wife or husband out for a “night on the town” after the “hard times” are over!
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